Thursday, 9 April 2009

Week two Indo!


Swell still small even though there has been prediction of some solid waves. Turns out every swell predicted just fades away.I finally managed a small wave at Ulu's but was joined by about 70 other surfers. So we took a little road trip up to Balian, which is a couple of hours north of Kuta. We arrived to 3 foot clean waves, just a little on the fat side though. Only bad thing was there was no accommodation anywhere. We decided to get in the water anyway and deal with finding somewhere to stay afterwards. The surf was ok, and luckily we managed to find a couple of rooms. The next morning was again an early one. I was the first one out but it filled up to around 20 people within about 10 minutes. Good waves though so well worth the effort although i broke a fin out of a board. After the morning session we decided to go on a mission further north to find some secret spots. All we found though was about 10 close out beach breaks. By the time we got to Medawi the swell had dropped a fair bit and was about a foot and onshore. Slightly annoying but I guess that seems to be the background to the whole trip so far. Unable to accept defeat we headed back to Balian, and although it was onshore there weren’t too many people in so we had a play. It turned out to be the best surf of the trip so far, definitely starting to find my feat, and managed not to even think about my knee, so all was good. The next day again a swell was predicted but didn’t show, and I woke up to a really painful ear infection. Guess it was from Balian as the water was disgusting, and one of the other guys i went with picked up an ear infection too...so that’s going to leave me out of the water for a few days again now unfortunately, but it looks like there’s is definitely swell coming next week, so hopefully all will clear up by then.

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